My final piece started out with the theme of architecture, after plenty of research the idea for my final outcome then became more closely connected to the theme of structure. The artists that I had looked at throughout the course were all based on different aspects of architecture, for example Harrison Johnson leant more towards the structural side where as designers such Dolce and Gabbana linked better with architectural detail. As well as these artists I also looked into many more such as Viktor and Rolf, Nathan Pass, Rowan Mersh and Petra Storrs. My final outcome had strong influence from Nathan Pass and Viktor and Rolf this is because Nathan Pass focused on collars and Viktor and Rolf used similar looking fabrics as those that I had used in my final outcome.
For my final outcome I chose to use pvc, one of the reasons for choosing to work with this fabric is because it holds its shape well. When planning my final piece I knew I wanted my outcome to be based on structure and therefore knew I needed a material that would be easy to work on to however also hold its shape well. When looking back through my book at fabrics I had experimented with it came down to the decision between denim and pvc. The one reason I didn’t choose denim is because it becomes too thick and hard to work with very quickly. As well as the final decision to use pvc for my final piece I also decide to use net to add abit of variation within my final outcome.
I like my final piece for many reasons. One of which is that it has come out how I had planned it to look, I also like the way it manages to hold its structure. Despite liking my final outcome if I was able to create it again I’d make sure all the squares were the same shape and size first as well as adding more net within the piece. One thing I wouldn’t change if I was to recreate my final piece is the shape of the base.
The most successful part of my entire project was my dolce and gabbana page, I feel this is successful because I created some beautiful small samples as well as providing a strong link between the artist’s work and my initial brief of architecture. One part of the project that wasn’t as successful as this was my research into Alexander McQueen, I struggled to find a link between his work and architecture, this is the main reason I decided against experiment further with his work, when taking inspiration from artists to create my final outcome.
If I had more time within the project I would go back through my book adding in more fashion illustrations, aswell as possibly adding more detailed annotation of my opinion towards artists work and how they could inspire me. If I was to start the project again I would separate my research into sections, for example start with the structural artists and then move onto architectural detail focused artists, this would allow me to clearly see which ways I work the best.
Final idea chosen, it was time to move on to the making. This happened in four main stages;
1.) Drawing out a paper template and experimenting with shapes; On the first template the shoulders were too wide and it was also decided that a collar around the neck area needed to be added in order to add support for the detail that would be added on.
2.) Cutting onto calico; once the pattern had been cut alterations were still needed because the final shape hadn’t yet been decided.
3.) Cutting out of plastic; The start of the final piece, the pvc was triple layered in order to provide enough support
4.) Adding the detail on top; Cutting of the squares and the stitched detail all came together along with net to create the final piece.
Once all my initial ideas were finished and linked back to an artist and the brief, I looked into which samples had been the most effective. I made the decision that my second idea was the most successful, this is where I went on to develop this idea even further. I drew two alternatives to the same idea. One was edited by joining the front and the other edited by altering the sizes of the squares used. Once the development were finished I decided to combine the two for my final idea.
After looking at a couple more artist, I realized that this research still wasn’t as strong as when I was looking into Viktor and Rolfs collection. This is when I knew I could start using this collection and material to start thinking about a final outcome. The process of this started by coming up with four initial ideas which were all slightly different. Each of my ideas took inspiration from a different artist using a different method of working every time however keeping the fabric used the same. With each idea I linked it back to architecture as well as sampling it up to see what would be the most effective way to create that idea.
Viktor and Rolf was my next point of interest, this work was heavily focused on pleats and therefore had a strong structural feel to it, as well as the pleats the collection also used a plastic looking material, making it keep a shape, this also meant it linked better to structure. To replicate this work I experimented with pvc and foils. As soon as I had used this method io knew it worked well for me. The samples I created were pleated.
At this stage in the course initial research was well underway however still had room for more to be added, this is where I carried on my research to look into Dolce and Gabbana’s fall 2012 collection, this collection linked closely to architectural detail, the detail added ontop of the dresses in the collection was similar to the detail found on interesting buildings. To replicate this work I started out using simple stitch work however this progressed to creating the same sorts of shapes onto vanishing muslin. Despite using this fabric before I was still unable to get to grips of the stitch work shrinking once the fabric was dissolved and therefore some of my samples look slightly distorted.
Structural frames were the next thing I went to look into, I looked at Rei Kawakubo and Harison Johnson. With both of the designers I could show a strong link between them and structural frames. When sampling up these pages I used many different methods including more stitch on net, ruffles, pleats and shibori. I found that despite the artists being based on structure the fabrics that I had decided to use definitely didn’t reflect this theme.
Lucia Benitez was another artist that I looked at this linked back to the first few artists that focused on origami. All her pieces of work were made from paper/card folded in particular ways. Despite having no idea how they were created I went on to play around with folding pieces of card, although some folds really didn’t work at all I ended up making a few mini outcomes. One piece I decided could be made into a skirt and one fold almost looked like half of a corset. To try and finish this off I tried to make the other half however creating the same folds in the same place for a second time was really difficult.
Once I had moved onto looking at smaller architectural detail such as staircases I decided to research into more artists that reflected this in their work. The first artist I looked at after making this decision was Iris Van Herpen, in this work there is lots of the same shape repeated over and over. One of the outcomes reminded me of a spiral staircase. To recreate this work I started using net with black and white stitch, I repeated triangular shapes all over it, I then went on to extend this work by using vanishing muslin , I used the same sort of stitch work however only used white thread. This outcome was effective because there was no fabric behind it. One thing I didn’t like about using this material is when it got dissolved all the stitch work shrunk and lost its shape and therefore didn’t look the same as it originally had done. Once I’d experimented with this I went on to use acetate that had printed images on it. The images I had chosen to put on the acetate were of staircases so that it related straight back to my brief, after printing this out I cut them out into triangular shape and stitched them onto a clear piece of pvc.
Stephanie McDonald Walker was the next artist I looked at, she created collars and had a strong link to the work of Nathan Pass aswell as the structural theme running through the last few artist studies. Stephanie McDonald Walkers work relates more closely to smaller structural things such as staircase, this is because of the intricate folds within the work. to replicate the work of Stephanie I decided to use felt. For some of the samples I cut small bits of felt up and stitched them randomly onto a base, however with some others I stitched long strips of felt in half and then cut slits into the side of it. Although this was effective I don’t feel there is any area for investigation into this sort of work.